By Farah Irani and Murray Dewhurst in Thrissur, India
Farah: Discovering Thrissur Pooram was a pleasant shock for me, a resident of India who had by no means heard of this competition till the Sketch Gala was mooted by USK Thrissur. Intrigued by tales shared earlier than the occasion and what I researched, I made a decision to remain longer simply to expertise this distinctive celebration first hand. Navigating via the bustling crowds, witnessing the mesmerising elephant processions, and immersing myself within the deliberate festivities turned attainable due to the invaluable steering of our hosts, Ravi and Rethy Balakrishna. Their perception and assist allowed me to completely embrace the magic of Thrissur Pooram, turning my first encounter into an unforgettable journey of discovery.
Murray: Invites like this don’t come alongside fairly often. The possibility to fulfill different sketchers on the Thrissur Sketchgala, to present some workshops and get to expertise a Pooram. That is undoubtedly not one thing Kiwis get to expertise fairly often – I used to be hooked when Ravi’s invitation casually talked about there can be as much as 100 embellished elephants in attendance (remember the fact that New Zealand is residence to precisely “0” elephants since Auckland’s zoo despatched it’s final elephant to an Australian zoo this 12 months). The City Sketchers Thrissur Sketch Gala was ingeniously devised by the USk Thrissur workforce across the Thrissur Pooram.
This would be my first time in India, at a Pooram and with so many elephants!
Thrissur is a metropolis located within the coronary heart of Kerala state, India. An necessary cultural heart, the identify Thrissur is derived from “Thiru-Shiva-Perur”, which interprets to “The town of the Sacred Siva”. The Thrissur Pooram revolves across the temple of Siva, the Sree Vadakkunnathan temple and Paramekkavu Bhagwati temple located in and across the Swaraj Spherical, the massive central metropolis park surrounded by a hoop highway. For every week elephant processions have carried their devis (goddesses) and mahouts from the encircling area in preparation for the occasion.
It’s a sweltering 45C late April day right here in Thrissur as we stroll previous the Paramekkavu Bhagavathi temple entrance. Crowds filter out and in (together with the odd embellished elephant!), we proceed round to the facet entrance, inside is the place the elephant ‘ornaments’ are displayed. Annually a workforce of artisans create a big glistening assortment of ornamentation together with brightly colored parasols (ornamental umbrellas), even brighter shields and numerous decorations for the Kudamattom – the place the 2 temples face-off in an umbrella showdown.
We stroll additional across the again of the temple the place we discover an elephant having fun with some cool reduction in a big water tank whereas a mahout is hosing and scrubbing him down. The usually towering, imposing animal is mendacity on it’s facet so wanting virtually deflated in opposition to the water’s floor.
MD: Not solely elephants want shade on such a scorching day, this man cheerfully saved the solar off me whereas I sketched these elephants behind the temple
There are extra elephants behind us. They’re sheltering from the solar in a big lined space behind Paramekkavu Bhagavathi temple whereas their mahouts hold busy washing, watering and ensuring they’re effectively fed.
FI: A glad wanting elephant behind the temple
FI: The Paramekkavu Bhagavathi temple sketched at Murray’s workshop
Villambranam – Pooram is open
‘Raman Tusker’, or simply Raman for brief, is essentially the most well-known and largest elephant in attendance. He’s round 60 years previous.
MD: Raman pushes via the temple gate doorways.
Murray: That is the scene when Raman pushes via the doorways of the south gate of the Sree Vadakkunnathan temple, signalling the Pooram is open and making the huge crowd go wild. I’ve by no means seen so many individuals in a single place on the similar time! (later I be taught that Raman is a controversial selection as he has beforehand trampled 13 folks to loss of life, a number of at an occasion this 12 months.)
MD: Be ready to come across elephants via the city this week
FI: An elephant and a crowd method one of many Poora Pandal gates on the Swaraj Spherical.
Adorned in golden nettipattam, gold plated headgear and bells, the elephants exude regal dignity as they parade their revered deities via throngs of individuals and the colorful Poora Pandal gates erected across the city heart.
FI: Nannari Shabbat kiosk
Farah: The Thrissur warmth is overwhelming! This stall close to Paramekkavu Bhagwati temple serves a refreshing drink distinctive to Kerala. Having by no means tasted this earlier than in India, I used to be hooked after the primary sip of Nannari Shabbat, the extract of Nannari roots of the sarsaparilla plant overwhelmed with milk chilled in mounds of ice. It’s the final word physique coolant drink.
Pooram morning
The noise is unimaginable. Our group is pushed alongside by the group, Ravi is slowly guiding our group (Darpana Athale, Reham Ali, Rethy and Ravi Balakrishnan) in direction of the Vadakkunnathan Temple. The sluggish tempo fits our workforce of… we’re all busy making an attempt to seize the scene in our sketchbooks.
We’re sandwiched between a number of traces of 11 elephants, every line has its personal orchestra of Chenda drummers and Kombu (a c-shaped curved trumpet) gamers constantly constructing to a musical frenzy – every time the group cheers attain a deafening frenzy in accompaniment. A workforce of police between every line do their finest to maintain a buffer between the group and the elephants. At one stage we’re shut sufficient to the touch them.
Navigating the Thrissur Pooram entails deftly sidestepping not solely throngs of individuals amidst the colourful festivities but additionally elephant dung, including a unusual but unavoidable factor to the occasion.
FI: Thoughts your step!
The principle occasion at Pooram is Kudamattom – the umbrella showdown
We’re again the next day to witness, thirty elephants, fifteen on both sides, face off for Kudamattom, the umbrella swap showdown.
We’re instructed that round 1,000,000 persons are on the town for the pooram and it appears they’re all right here for the primary occasion. TV crews, VIP stands, tons of carts promoting meals, balloon sellers, fan sellers and the rest you possibly can think about is being toted via the group.
Caption: Toy and balloon sellers
The central elephant on both sides carries the deity which is held from behind by a priest. Behind the priest a mahout holds a fantastically crafted decorative umbrella, one other holds up two fluffy cottony followers manufactured from Yak’s fur, referred to as venjaamaram. One more holds up the followers manufactured from peacock feathers, referred to as aalavattom. Every ornament is raised in flip and in unison with the others.
In a battle of creativity and innovation, a contemporary colourway of umbrellas are handed as much as the mahouts by their assist workforce under and exchanged periodically to the rhythm of the music performed by the orchestra. This course of is repeated time and again, with every new show of color, the music and crowd in frenzy.
Closing of the Pooram
The gang frenzy is at its peak because the elephants line up for his or her final efficiency. I obtained pushed by the crowds in direction of the entrance of the temple. Surging within the sea of humanity I continued sketching what was in entrance of me. The gang perched on the temple partitions appeared to be focusing fully on the doorway of the temple. Arms waved in sync with the rhythm of the drumbeat, and the frenzy of cameras clicking appeared endless. The rhythms accelerated, heightening the palpable pleasure within the air. Instantly the group erupted in a roar… and inside minutes began dispersing.
Police swing into motion, rapidly pushing the crowds out and cordoning the realm across the temple for a closing earthshaking fireworks extravaganza.
A closing salute between two elephants carrying the deities of Thiruvambadi and Paramekkavu temple ends the 36 hour Pooram. After the salute the elephants flip and make their strategy to their respective temples and put together to come back again subsequent 12 months.
If you need to be taught a bit of extra concerning the Pooram, direct message City Thrissur on your copy…
https://www.instagram.com/uskthrissur?utm_source=ig_web_button_share_sheet&igsh=ZDNlZDc0MzIxNw==
Writer
Farah Irani and Murray Dewhurst